revolver, used, purchasingIf I’m looking at purchasing a used revolver, what should be on the lookout for to determine if the gun is in pretty good shape? Let’s assume I won’t be allowed to fire it before purchasing.
There’s a lot to look out for: http://tinyurl.com/revocheck (link to 12 page Google doc of detailed information)
The summary (further revised by kbyrd) from page 12 of “Revolver Checkout”, 2011 Revised Edition by Jim March:
SAFETY FIRST! Make sure it’s unloaded and always, always watch your muzzle direction!
Get the cylinder swung open, removed, or whatever else it takes to get to a point where you see the back of the barrel.
External once-over - look for:
Boogered screws.
Cracks: pay particular attention to the back of the barrel and the frame where the barrels goes in.
Proper fit at any place there are metal-to-metal edges.
Look under the “topstrap” just over the barrel for signs of flame-cutting. A little is OK on a steel gun but does indicate wear/age. It’s bad on anything aluminum or scandium/aluminum. Look to see if a small “heat shield” has gone missing!
Check the barrel. You need a light at one end - look for bulges, pitting, nicks, especially near the muzzle. Look for signs of cracks or erosion at the back of the barrel.
Look at the cylinder’s “star” at the rear: make sure it’s cleanly machined, not chewed-up looking.
Check each cylinder bore like it was a small barrel. Smooth is good. Erosion at the business end isn’t.
With the gun reassembled and unloaded, cock it, then lower the hammer with the trigger still held back. This is “full lockup” - the state the gun will be at during firing. Check the following:
Make sure the cylinder doesn’t wiggle front/back (parallel to the barrel) - that is called endshake, which is bad. A tiny amount is OK, especially with a lesser caliber, steel gun or both. In a stout caliber and/or a lightweight gun (especially aluminum/scandium/magnesium) it is a scary thing.
Check for “rotational wiggle”. A little is OK on S&Ws (all), Rugers (all), Taurus/Rossi, anything Italian, etc. On double-action Colt revolvers there is supposed to be zero rotational play.
Shine a strong light right at the firing pin behind the cylinder and look down the barrel. Don’t see any light? UNLOAD it. You want to see the cylinder bore on each chamber (done one at a time) line up behind the barrel in a “circle behind a circle” effect. It’s easy to spot. If it’s off a fraction and it’s one of the “loose rotational lockup” guns (S&W/Ruger/etc.) see if it’s possible to “nudge” the cylinder into alignment. If so, the gun is safe to shoot but will take a small accuracy hit.
Check the gap between barrel and cylinder. Hold it up to a light - is it even top to bottom? Use a feeler gauge set - .002 is minimal, .003” to .004” optimal on most guns esp. snubbies or anything where you need max velocity, beyond .006” I’d be unhappy with it.
Drag one finger gently on the cylinder while slowly cocking it. Make sure the gun pushed the cylinder completely into it’s next “click”.
Cock it, wiggle the hammer, make sure it doesn’t slip off.
Make sure that pulling your finger off the trigger causes the firing pin to retract, if the gun has a hammer block or transfer bar safety! You can usually see the firing pin with the trigger pulled and the hammer down, if you hold it up to a light sideways.
Pull the grip panels, look for signs of crude mainspring alteration, rust, etc.
Check anything specific to the gun type, such as Ruger “transfer bar pinch” issues, breakopen hinge looseness, etc.
Here’s a few things to note:
From a mechanical standpoint, you’ll want to look for:
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